Know before you go

• Nahargarh fort at dusk gives the whole lit city below; go up before 5 pm and come down before 9.
• Book a haveli inside the walls so you can walk out into the markets after dark.
• Jaipur airport is 12 km from the old city, about 30 minutes; the walled city is closed to cars on Diwali night, so walk in from a gate.